Where do you go when you’ve been in Paris for a few weeks and feel the need for a little change of scenery.
Well there is always an endless supply of Parisian restaurants, parks and neighborhoods beyond the tired and true. But there are also many, many towns within hour or two by train. Consider this quick list:
- List Item
- Rouen (1h30) Why visit? Beautiful half-timbered houses, the stunning Rouen Cathedral (painted by Monet), and a rich medieval history tied to Joan of Arc. Bonus: Great Norman cuisine—try the duck or cider-based dishes.
- Orléans (1h15) Why visit? Known for its connection to Joan of Arc, it has a lovely historic center and the impressive Orléans Cathedral. Bonus: Walk along the Loire River and enjoy the local wines.
- Amiens (1h15) Why visit? Home to France’s largest Gothic cathedral, picturesque canals in the Saint-Leu district, and the unique Hortillonnages floating gardens. Bonus: Jules Verne lived here, and you can visit his house!
- Chartres (1h) Why visit? The Chartres Cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage site, famous for its stained glass. The old town is charming, too. Bonus: Visit at night for the Chartres en Lumières light show (spring to fall).
- Dijon (3h) Why visit? The heart of Burgundy, famous for mustard, wine, and gorgeous medieval and Renaissance architecture. Bonus: Walk the “Owl Trail” (Parcours de la Chouette) to see the city’s highlights.
- Reims (1h30) Why visit? The city of Champagne, with stunning Gothic architecture and the historic Reims Cathedral, where French kings were crowned. Bonus: Champagne tastings at some of the world’s most famous houses.
- Troyes (1h30) Why visit? A hidden gem with medieval half-timbered houses, cobblestone streets, and a relaxed, small-town feel. Bonus: Great outlet shopping and local cheeses.
- Saint Germain-en-Laye Why visit? Birthplace of both Louis XIV with a beautiful Le Nôtre-designed garden. Bonus: birthplace museum of Jean-Claude Debussy.
After fifty years of living in and visiting France I had never been to Saint Germain-en-Laye and we finally decided that easiest was best. Rather than a $200 day trip, we spent €2.50 each way on the RER to visit this small bedroom community just 12 miles (20km) outside of Paris.
We barely had time to settle into our upper deck RER seats when just 28 minutes later, we arrived at the downtown RER station where we emerged into a bright open sky in front of both the château and the église Saint Germain. The park running along side the château was irresistible with its long alleys of sculptured trees trimmed back for the winter. At the end of a 200 yard open path, we were able to look out on the view east toward La Defense and the Tour Eiffel beyond.
Saint Germain-en-Laye is especially known for its château, which now houses an archaeological museum, an immense park designed by Le Nôtre, and the birthplaces of both Louis IV and Jean-Claude Debussy.
Turning left, we entered the “Parc,” a larger wooded area filled with families out for a walk or bike ride. Since it is France, there were plenty of small cafes selling all types of simple foods at moderate prices.
Turning back the other way, we found the entrance to the house where Louis XIV was born. it is now nice hotel and restaurant bistronomique. The menu was intriguing until we realized the fixed price menu was not available on the weekends.
We took a quick tour of the inside of the chateau’s museum which will interest students of the bronze and iron ages. On a beautiful day though, it wasn’t as exciting as the prospect of lunch at one of the many outdoor cafes.
Our plan was to do a quick visit of the Jean-Claude Debussy museum, but it was closed so all we could do was peer into the windows. The building was nothing exciting but we will never know what wonders it held within.
We found a delightful outdoor café and had lunch in a square where we could watch Sunday shoppers out for a stroll. After a quick bite, we walked slowly back to the RER for our very quick ride back to center-Paris.
If you have time, Saint Germain-en-Laye is definitely worth a quick half-day trip. Leaving around 10AM, we were back before 3PM feeling renewed after a bit of less urban air.
